Alice Waters is the owner and chef at just one of the many fine restaurants that I can’t afford, Chez Panisse, in Berkeley, California. After many years of dining out, I’ve learned that I can not afford to eat at ANY restaurant with “Chez” in the name. Anyway, Chef Waters is well known as a proponent of the use of local products in her restaurant. Reading about her got me to thinking how far we’ve moved away from the idea that local products, local businesses and local services are good for us and good for our communities and good for our nation.
We need to support local businesses (if we can still find them) with unique local products (if there still are any such things) and local viewpoints. If we don’t do something, everything will be the same no matter where we go. Take Chili’s for example. Now I have no objection to Chili’s. They serve pretty good ribs, and they have a terrific warm chocolate dessert that I’m sure has killed more people than texting while driving has. And those people died happy (the diners, not the drivers). But wherever you go, from sea to shining sea, when you eat at Chili’s, the food will be exactly the same. It will look the same, it will taste the same, and it will be served to you by the same server with the same Chinese symbol tattooed on the upper arm, which the server was told (by the tattoo artist) means “Serenity” but in reality is the Chinese symbol meaning “Brake Fluid.”
A short while back I was in Philadelphia for the first time in many years. Decades ago I used to visit my late aunt there…the one that everyone else in the family referred to, only half-jokingly, as “Crazy Trudy.” Whenever I would visit, she would take me to lunch at Wanamaker’s Department Store. The store was huge, with a wonderful central gallery that went from the first floor all the way to the top, and a luxurious restaurant overlooking the gallery. The food, served on fine china by liveried waiters, was really good, the live organ music was a nice touch, and best of all, it was THE famous Wanamaker’s in Philadelphia…it was special…one-of-a-kind. It had been there since the 1876 Centennial, and it had it’s own character, it’s own personality, it’s own products. It was as “Philadelphia” as the Liberty Bell. It’s a Macy’s now. It carries the same products as every other Macy’s, has the same displays as every other Macy’s, and it’s as “local” as a McDonald’s.
Speaking of which…we’ve got a town here in south Florida (SoFla to those locals who are concerned with the ever-rising cost of printer cartridges) named Davie. It’s a suburb of Ft. Lauderdale. Davie fancies itself a “Western” community, even though driving east for just fifteen minutes will cause your car to fill with Atlantic Ocean water. It has some horses, an annual rodeo in its very own little rodeo arena, and three “Western Wear” stores, inexplicably selling “Cowboy” clothes (Stetson hats, flashy boots made from the skins of every conceivable animal, belt buckles the size of manhole covers) to nearly every Jewish attorney in the Ft. Lauderdale metropolitan area (“Happy Passover, Pardner…”). The Davie McDonald’s used to have wallpaper with a horseshoe motif, and, hanging on the wall, a medium-sized glass “shadow box” frame with labeled samples of various types of antique barbed wire. I thought that it was pretty interesting. It wasn’t much, but it differentiated this McDonald’s from others. Several years ago, they refurbished this McDonald’s (and changed the oil in the fryer for the last time) and lo and behold, the horseshoe wallpaper and the barbed wire display mysteriously disappeared. Too local, I guess. I know that it’s silly, but that was when (and why) I stopped going to this McDonald’s.
And even though I have never had a cup of coffee in my life, don’t get me started on Starbucks and the premeditated murder of America’s local “coffee shops.”
I used to be able to find local seafood products everywhere. You can’t swing a dead catfish down here without hitting a fishing boat. Now, it’s beyond challenging if not downright impossible to find anything caught anywhere near here. As a matter of fact, most of the seafood I see in the stores wasn’t wild at any point in its life. It didn’t even have to be caught…it was “harvested.” Farmed tilapia, farmed salmon, farmed shrimp and so on…none of it local, or for that matter, none of it American at all. And I can get the exact same farmed seafood anywhere in the country. The Kahler Hotel in Rochester, Minnesota used to serve locally-caught Pike, and it was delicious. Today, the Kahler’s menu is replete with the same imported farmed seafood as everywhere else. This problem goes WAY beyond seafood. Does your city or town have ANY local merchants, local craftsmen, local farmers, local ANYTHING? How do you go about finding them? Do you buy a local tomato, or a cheaper Mexican one? Can you even FIND a local tomato?
In Florida, agricultural products must be, by law, labeled with the country of origin. I have not been able to buy American-grown garlic for years. From the taste I can’t really tell the difference between American garlic and imported garlic, but that’s not the point. Every year I see something or read something about the Annual Garlic Festival in Gilroy, California. Thousands attend. They even have a guy walking around dressed as a huge garlic bulb, and all manner of garlic products are featured, including, of all things, garlic ice cream. Now I can’t imagine that garlic ice cream has become so popular that the countless tons of garlic that Gilroy produces ALL go into that product (garlic ice cream slogan… “Bad Breath AND Clogged Arteries…You Really CAN Have Both…”). But they sure aren’t shipping it to stores near me. Is California garlic really a “local” product? It is when you compare it to the Chinese variety for sale in my local supermarket.
I was, fairly recently, in Maui, Hawaii, and found a beautiful “craft” shop in the town of Paia. I saw a wonderful carved wood plaque that had flowers and trees, and said “MAUI” on it. When I turned it over to check the price, I saw the “Made in Thailand” sticker, and I could not put it down fast enough. The mother-of-pearl headband that my wife purchased in the same shop was from France. I tried to buy some locally produced “Aloha” Shirts (the official uniform of The Association of Old Guys Who Don’t Give a Damn What You Think). After looking at dozens of them made in China, Indonesia, Malaysia, and so on, I was about to give up, when I FINALLY found some, actually made in Hawaii, at, of all places, the Maui COSTCO. COSTCO? Really? COSTCO? But if I hadn’t gone to that COSTCO (COSTCO Slogan… “Are You Sure That Five Gallons of Mayonnaise is Enough?” ) I would have had to purchase colorful and alarming shirts that were NOT made in Hawaii, which I did not want to do. It’s bad enough that my souvenir Eiffel Tower (purchased within sight of the real thing) was made in China. I would LOVE to know if anyone has seen, in the last twenty years, an American Flag Lapel Pin MADE IN AMERICA. I’m THIS CLOSE to offering a bounty for one.
Okay…I just read this over, and I’m starting to rant. Not a good sign at my age. But I think that you get the point. Alice Waters is on to something. We need to get the local character back, wherever we are. It won’t be easy, but it is worthwhile. A nation with nothing but Chili’s, Macy’s, Starbucks and so on, is a nation deprived of itself. We need to get back to the notion of the local product, the local vendor, the local craftsman, the local landmark…whether it’s a store, a farm, a coffee shop, or even a restaurant like Chez Panisse. Without landmarks, how will you ever know for sure where you are?